Bernard Gorgeon
Bernard Gorgeon, born in 1953 in Marseille, is a French climber, mountain guide, and author. He is one of the leading figures in French climbing, whose biography is intrinsically intertwined with the history and culture of climbing in the South of France.
Introduced to climbing at just ten years old in the calanques of Marseille, it was there that he forged his first memories as a climber, accompanied by his father, a passionate self-taught climber, passionate about mountaineering and the classics of Rébuffat. His childhood was divided between school, rocks, and precious moments spent exploring the region's cliffs, his fingers using hemp ropes, symbols of an era marked by freedom and resourcefulness.
In the 1970s, Gorgeon was part of a nonconformist youth movement that revolutionized climbing, seeking to break away from traditional practices and invent a new way of life. Along with Patrick Edlinger and other companions, he contributed to the emergence and democratization of free climbing, which became a true philosophy and way of life. He was one of the pioneers of fixed equipment, of the club that invested in opening and securing routes, and of the mountain guide who didn't limit his practice to mountaineering.
Bernard Gorgeon is primarily recognized for having "invented" the first routes in Buoux, an emblematic site in the Luberon, which he describes as a magical valley where the rock is "round, soft, perforated like St. John's wort, gray, yellow, red, green, fresh, secret, captivating, reassuring, cozy... a cocoon, a treasure chest." The Buoux site quickly became a stepping stone to the climber's holy grail: the Verdon, whose Grand Canyon remained largely unexplored at the time. Gorgeon opened several legendary routes there, many of which would become classics and shape his legend. He contributed to the writing of major guidebooks such as "Climbing the Verdon, the 500 Most Beautiful Routes" and "Climbing the Verdon, 984 Routes from 5b to 8c," listing the routes that have made this site's international reputation. Among the most notable are legendary routes in Buoux and the Verdon, often opened in epic conditions, combining daring, humor, and camaraderie. He was also a pioneer in the practice of canyoning in the Verdon Gorges.
His book "A Life of Climbing, from Hemp to the Olympics" (Glénat, 2021) retraces his journey with humor, sensitivity, and a spirit of adventure, evoking his numerous route openings in the calanques, in Buoux, on the Sainte-Victoire mountain, but especially in the Verdon Gorges, where he settled in La Palud-sur-Verdon as a guide, in the heart of this temple of verticality. His story is also the story of his accidents, his friendships, the values of the practice, and the transmission of the art of climbing.
Through his atypical journey, he embodies the spirit of the rope team, the beauty of the rock, and the art of living specific to climbers from the South—between frugality, nonconformity, and freedom.
| Known For | Acting |
|---|---|
| Most Rating | 0.0281 |
| Birthday | 1953-01-01 |
| Place of Birth | Marseille, France |
| Also Known As |
1981
Oversand
10/1
Oversand is one of the first films about free climbing, the third film in a series of three with "Overdon" and "Over-Ice". Directed by Jean-Paul Janss...
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Oversand
1980
Overdon
10/1
First film in a series of three with Over-Ice and Oversand and one of the first films on free climbing shot in the cliffs of the Gorges du Verdon in s...
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Overdon
2021
Verdon - The Show Must Go On
10/1
Documentary on climbing in the famous Verdon gorges, a mecca for world climbing. From Bernard Vaucher to Catherine Destivelle, from Bernard Gorgeon to...
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Verdon - The Show Must Go On
1980
The Gate of Heaven
10/1
A legendary film in the history of rock climbing in the Verdon Gorges, shot in 16mm between the autumn of 1978 and the spring of 1979 by Henri Agresti...
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The Gate of Heaven
1983
Verdon-Saussois 1983
10/1
In 1983, the French Mountain Federation (FFM) organized a landmark climbing gathering in Saussois and the Verdon, bringing together generations of the...
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